Monday, June 25, 2012

Tattooing.Tools Of The Trade Descriptions


Tools Of The Trade
Descriptions Гог the tools of the trade the beginning tat too i.st is going to neai to start out By no means a complete checklist, it will still itemize the basic fools of tattooing and the tattooist will no doubt add and subtract from this list as their experience warrants. Please don't get confused by reading this, because each item will eventually be discussed in morederail in some other section of this book.
After you've read this book several times, all of these items will tie themselves in and start tn make sense. A materials list for the tattooist to consider would read something like this, nol necessarily in the order of importance
Work Table - A medium sue table (linoleum or glass top for easier cleaning) to hojd items needed while rattooingChair- For the tattooist. Should becomfortable.Some prefer rollers tnget around You can spend a lot of time in this.
Customer Chair- A comfortable chair for clients to sit in while their tattoo is being done.
Lifter Bench - Common weight lifting bench for clients to stretch out tin while doing back or legs.
F*nt Stool - For the tattooist'3 Foot to give him elevation for those who do forearm type work or balance the tattoo arm on the knee
Bench Equipment Adjustable Table Light - To get good look at what you are doing from all angles (Do not. use fluorescent light.)
Paper Towels and Dispenser - For a variety of purposes from wiping ink up to cleaning tattoos.
MStedclavef' Autoclave - For sterile dressings and equipment This is a must. Wayne Dri-Clave - Tiible top. Sterilizer pouches to check sterilizing Ultrasonic Cleaner - Cleans all residue from tubes* needles, etc.
Ultrasonic- Solution - For use with Ultrasonic Cleaner.
Ultrasonic TYay and Machine Holder - Submersible tray to hold tools in while in the Ultrasonic Cleaner.
Machine Rack - To hold machines while not in use. Contains test tubes for machines. Benz All - Agermictdal solution thatis non-rusting. This does notsterUtee, but keeps sterile equipment clean. For use in machine test tubes.
Tools
Tattoo Machines At least three are needed, later building up to as many as ten. Some are exclusively for shading, others just for lining. Put your personal marks on each machine so as to always put liner tubes on lining machines and shader tubes on shading machines.
Tattoo Parts - An assortment of parts for any repairs.
Tubes - Extra tubes for machine, stainless steel
Needle Bars - Liners and shaders. You will need many of both. Preshaped at supply house for you.
Bands - Tension is important for proper tattooing.
Feeler Gauge - For adjusting contact points.
Power
Power Unit - To run machines.
Clip Cords - The contact from unit to machine.
Foot Switch - To control machine without using hands.
Needle Making
Soldering Gun - To solder needles together and to solder needles to bars.
Plain Needle Bars - To receive needle group.
Needle Jig - To make correct needle groups.
Needle Bar Jig To ensure placement of groups with bars.
Stainless Solder - The soldering medium.
Tweezers — To hold work.
Eye Loupe - To check work and needles
Medical
Stainless Trays - For needles.
Three Glass or Stainless TYays (With Sealing Tops) - One tray containing liner and needle bars. (I s point one way - 3's point the other way). One tray containing shader needle bars -(4"s point one way, 6's point the other way). One tray containing shader and liner needle tubes (shaders point one way. liners the other way). Glass Quart Jar - One filled with sterile ink caps.
Spray Bottles -To hold tsopropyl alcohol, greensoap mixture (three parts water/one part soap), etc.
Carbolated Vaseline — For stencils and skin.
Antibiotic Ointments - Such as Bacitracin, for healing.
Green Soap - Cleanup and preps. Does not sterilize.
Tongue Depressors — To apply ointments.
Disposable Razors - For skin prep.
Bandage — For tattoos.
Handi Wrap - For tattoos.
Hospital Tape To adhere dressings.
Rubbing Alcohol - Disinfectant for cleanups. Does not sterilize.
Scissors - Stainless hospital quality.
Hemostats - Stainless hospital quality.
Gloves - Surgical latex gloves for tattooing-
Stencil
Acetate - Plastic sheeting for stencils.
Cutter - To put groove in acetate.
Powder — Stencil medium for use with acetate.
Ink - Hecktograph Ink.
Tracing Paper - For ink tracings.
Deodorant Stick — For applying stencil to skin.
Inks - A color assortment and black.
Ink Bottles - Four ounce twist top.
Caps - To hold ink.
Holder — To keep caps in place.
Flash - Lots of designs are needed.
Pencils. Watercolors - To color flash sheets.
This list is not totally complete, but it is a good guideline to get you started. Few people can purchase it all at once and must slowly put it together. Don't be frightened by the long list, all the equipment is quite small and portable. Compared to other businesses, this list is pretty simple and not as expensive as some practices can be. Buying in order of importance and practicality first seems to be a smart direction to follow.
Tattooists must have an organized area around them for any kind of efficient work. The universal approach is a work table in front of the worker for proper and easy location of items. Vou may make the table, but the best and most professional one you can afford would be wiser choice. It's important to make sure it is flat, sits sturdy, and is easy to clean and keep clean. It should also be large enough to hold everything you will need. It is advisable to have a knee cutout in the front of the table (rather then solid) so the customer on some occasions can get right up close to the table to keep your reaching to minimum. standard table is about 20 inches wide. 48 inches long and a comfortable height off the ground. The top can be formica, finished hardwood or preferably stainless steel or glass, A small sink with hot and cold faucets should be mounted in the top off to the side. Sit in a chair beside the skin, facing the farther end of the table so the sink will be on your right side. Ifyou are left handed, everything will be the opposite,
Everything should be within easy reach. The things used most often should be located the closest to you, and the items used less often are located further away. The items used the most are things like caps full of ink, the carbolated vaseline and the spray bottle of green soap. Also, the lamp and paper towels should be within easy reach. Slightly further back, but still within easy reach, is the spray bottle of alcohol, extra ink caps, three washes to clean the ink out of tubes when colors are changed, going from the first distilled water to the second distilled water to the alcohol last. A little further back are bandage supplies, extra needle bars, tubes and inks, with machine rack just barely within reach to hold spare tattoo machines or another machine with a different set-up. One for outlines and one for shading and coloring.
Some women would like to have a little privacy, so it is good idea to keep a spare tube top handy for them, so they don't get any ink on their clothes. Many women will ask for a private session for more privacy.

An office chair on wheels can be used to move around easily to get in different positions. It mayor may not have arms on it, has an adjustable back rest and the height should be adjustable also. Arm rests work good for steadying thehand while tattooing.
A folding chair can be used for the customer to sit in. A front rail between the two front legs makes a good foot brace for the tattoo artist when working on an arm tattoo. Some like to work off their Jap and find it handy to brace elbows on their leg while doing a bicep, forearm or ankle.
To do a back piece, have them sit facing the back of the folding chair with one leg through the opening in the back so they don't have to spread their legs so far apart. This position is easier for the artist as long as the tattoo is on the upper part of the back. A pillow under the customer's arms draped over the back of the chair will make it more comfortable. If the piece is too low down on the back to do comfortably in a sitting position, lay them down on a weight bench. The weight bench works well for chest pieces, stomachs, legs and backsides. You should move the customer where you can reach them best, and still have the ink, sprays and paper towels within easy reach. Then adjust the light so you can see well.
This outline is a basic set-up to get you started. It is the duty of every tattooist to familiarize themselves with this, then take over where this chapter has left off, customizing the area to suit their own needs.






It is often said that a machine is no better than the person operating it. This can also be applied to tattoo machines. A tattooist must have confidence with his machines and must learn to run them properly, not have them run him.
T&tEoo machines may vary in appearance but they all run basically the same, and perform the same function, driving a needle up and down very fast, perforating the skin and driving ink in as the operator steers it along while leaving a trail behind. This is done when the machine is connected into a power source and turned on, a full electrical circuit runs through it. When this happens, the two coils become magnetized (an electric magnet) and attract the metal armature bar down to it. As the armature bar moves down, the needles move down. When this happens, the contact points separate from each other, causing a break in the electrical circuit. As soon as this happens, the machine stops, the coils become unmagnetized and the armature bar springs back up. This makes the needle go back up. When it springs back up. the contact points touch each other and make a circuit again, and this starts the process all over. The machine becomes magnetized and unmagnetized and the needles go up and down. This happens extremely fast, too fast for the eye to follow. All that can be heard is a buzzing, as the circuits separate and contact again.


The armature bar gets attracted to the magnet. It gets pulled down and the needle bar {and needles) attached to it move down. As bar moves down, the contactpoints separate and breaks the circuit.

Current
flow
through
machine

The coils become electric magnets

Text Box: Machine is on. The circuit is completed through the contact

When the bar springs up, the points make contact and the circuit starts again, coils become magnetized.
 









TATTOO MACHINE WIRING DIAGRAM
Solder lug on rear binding post
SoEder lug on front binding post
Capacitor
Rear
coil
Front
coil
Twist
connection


Clip inside corners for wire clearance


Bottom view of coils




1.  Front Spring
2.  Washer - 10/32"
3.  Washer - 8/32"
4.  Screw
5.  Rear Spring
6.  Screw, Binder Head - 3/4
7.  Screw, Binder Head - 3/4
8.  Extruded Washer, Black Nylon 9- Soldering Lug
10. Cap, Contact Screw
11. Contact Screw, Sterling Silver, 6/32 x I
12. Binding Post
13. Screw, Black Nylon, 8/32 x 1/4 14- Rubber Bands
15. Machine Frame
16. Binder Screw (3/4)
17. Washer. Black Nylon, Flat IS. Band Hook
19. Screw, Flat Head Machine, Stainless Steel, 8/32 x 1/4
20. Screw - 8/32 3/4
21. Needle Bar
22. Needle T\ibe
23. Tube Cap
24. Capacitor
25. Steel Shims
26. Machine Coil
27. Hospital Tape
28. Armature Bar
29. Contact Point (Sterling Silver)

Parts Description
A.  Machine Frame (16) - Although many Frames look different, they all have these basic features; the jaws in which the needle tube (22) is clamped in (via wing nut (20)). The base of the frame is where the coils are mounted. The spring brace is in the rear and supports the rear binding post and armature bar. The side arm holds the front binding posL


B.  Machine Coils(26) - Steel Core, come in eight or ten wrap(wraps of wire around pore) cotton or enamel wrapped wire. These coils act as electro-magnets, They attach to base with screws (20). Spacing washers (25) ride underneath cores.
C.  Machine Springs (1) and (5) - Front spring holds contact point (29). Rear one attaches to armature bar (28) and spring brace on frame with screw and washers (2f 3, 4). Provides resilience for up and down needle motion.
D.  Armature Bar(28) - Provides steel mass for magnetic pull. Also is link to tattoo needle (21).
Е»  Front Binding Post( 12) - Holds contact screw (11 )and adjusts for alignment by
use of nylon washers. Contact screw can be locked in position by lock screw(13).
F.  Rear Binding Post (17) - Provides contact point for clip cord. Adjusts for alignment with washers (8).
G.  Capacitor (24) — Usually 10, MFD, 25 volts standard. Can be fitted to any machine to minimize sparking and arcing.
H.  Bands (14) - Provide even pressure on needle bar. Should be replaced often,
I.   Tubes (22) - Use only Stainless Steel open Sanitary Tjbes. Encases needle and bar (21). Provides good gripping surface.
SPAULDING Ь ROGERS "QUICKCHANGE" MACHINE



One more type of machine should be mentioned. The very latest state-of-the-art in tattoo machines is the Spaulding & Rogers “Revolution" machine. Totally different in appearance and operation than the regular tattoo machine, it delivers more efficient needle movement, runs smoother and virtually noiseless and is considerably lighter in weight Also to note is the lack of a steel frame, the Revolutionis made of indestructible high-impact nylon plastic and the workings are totally self-contained. A big advantage also is the lack of rubier bands, as this machine utilizes a patented action cam to not only supply movement, but also to securely hold the needle bar. This new machine is changing the tanoo industry and is worth checking out.


The electrical link between the machine and the power supply is the clip cord. One end has two phone jacks for the Power Unit anti the other spring clip connecting device. One hook from the clip cord slips into the hole located in the rear underside top part of the frame, the other hook goes into the hole located in the rear binding post


Tbttoo machines run on direct current. In the beginning, you may к-ant ta use a battery set-up. They are simple and cheap at first The drawback is they have to be maintained and charged.
You can get good Power Unit for less than the price of two batteries. A Power Unit Is handy because it can be plugged into the wall socket, and is fairly trouble-free. Excellent units are available on the Market today. Even if a Power Unit is used, battery set-up is a useful piece of spare equipment to have around.
Also, if you have a cellar, you may want to use two 12 volt auto batteries and a trickle charger. Ifso, use caution as overcharged batteries are highly explosive, and you don't want any battery acid around the area of your work.
rheostat mounted on a bakelite panel provided with connecting posts may be available from your tattoo supply house.
Power Units come in different sizes. Buy the best one that you can afford, A good power supply is very important.

Remove bottom panel of unit, attach corresponding wires to counterparts using alligator clips
 
Footswitch
 
Clip cord
 
Rheostat
 
Switch
 
Bench mount switchboard
 
Clip cord
 
Clip cord
 
Footswitch
 

















Work
bench

Switch board panel mounted on desk side for easy use
 
Power unit hidden under table
 
 


POWER UNIT HOOK-UP
 
D.C. power unit 1A
 
Jack plug for Spaulding Revolution machine. Do not plug any other machine into this
 
Clip cord
 
Footswitch
 























Next, line up the contact point in a direct line over the nipple on the armature bar and tighten. Then line up the contact point on the front spring in a direct line with the contact screw. The rear spring should be snug against the rear screw in most cases. Tighten rear screw. The contact screw points to One o'clock, when you hold up the machine and point the front (tube end) to your left. It is in this position when it is new, and should stay in this position.
Attach the clip cord to your machine and turn on your power pack. Holding the machine firmly in your tefl hand by the frame, slowly turn the contact screw down (clockwise) to meet the contact point on the front spring. Be careful to only touch the contact screw by the rubber tip or it will shock you. If the rubber tip is missing, you can wrap a piece of electrical tape around the end, or even a rubber band in an emergency.

Text Box: One o'clockCONTACT POINT ALIGNMENT



Silver
Text Box: Contact point on spring in lire with armature ba nippleText Box: Contact screw points to one o'clockcontact
Text Box: Contact point on springscrew







As you keep the foot pedal pushed down, slowly turn the contact screw down to meet the contact point. Your machine will start to run when the contacts get close enough together to make a circuit. A general rule of thumb is that the gap between the shader points when you push down on the armature bar is the thickness of a nickel. The gap between the points on the liner should be about the thickness of a dime. Nickel shader, dime liner. This distance will change slightly with each machine and with the shape the springs are in. If they are weak, you can compensate by turning down the contact screw a bit. not too much. This measure has to be done with the machine off and the armature bar held in the down position. On a machine with heavy-duty coils, this measurement may be doubled. Another way to do it, is to eyeball the distance the armature bar is travelling, as the machine runs, while you adjust the contact screw. When the distance the armature bar is travelling up and down is about the same distance as a dime or a nickel, depending on which machine you are tuning at the time, then you are right.

CHAPTER FOUR
Keeping your equipment running smoothly is very important and takes more than just a little luck. You have to understand all aspects of the machines and how to tune them.
One of your duties will be to check the contact points on a regular basis. Keep the points and the contact screws in good shape so they will make good 'contact,"
To set the points, be sure they are first clean and smooth. A point file can be used to flatten the surfaces if either one of them is burned or pitted. Silver points are readily replaceable and if they can't be filed back into shape, put on a new spring with a new contact point on it, or just file ofT the old point and put on a new one. If it can be repaired, do so, taking care not to file off any more of the point than you need to. Emery cloth is very effective in cleaning up both the points and the contact screw, also a burnishing file works well.
Use a light touch on the procedure, or you will go through a lot more contact points than necessary. A quick buff job when they get slightly pitted is about all that is required. Be sure to huff the contact screw too, so you will have good contact there.
Text Box: Silver
contact
paint
Text Box: SpringText Box: Silver
contact
screw
CONTACT POINTS OF TATTOO MACHINE
Detail

These “contact" surfaces must be cleaned and filed smooth.
To get longer life out of the points, spray them with a good contact cleaner occasionally.
After continued use, the front spring that holds the contact point and the back spring that holds the armature bar to the frame will weaken and should be replaced. If your coloring is getting sketchy, it could be weak springs; one or both of them If they are weak they won't have enough bounce to penetrate the skin anymore and are springing back before any depth is attained. Before removing spring and armature bar. put a mark on the sideof the armature bar and continue the mark across the center of the washer on top of the front coil. (See Diagram.) After you have made your repairs, be sure both marks line up when replacing the armature bar. This is important because the armature bar has been seated in on the top of the front coil and should go back in Lhe exact same place for top performance of your machine.
To replace the springs, take needle and bands off, loosen the set screw on the front binding post and back the contact screw out four or five turns. Then loosen the rear screw on top of the machine and remove the entire assembly consisting of the rear spring, the armature bar and the front (contact) spring


Remove the screw that is holding both springs to the armature bar. First, put the screw back in the hole in the rear spring and start it into the armature bar. Make sure you still have both washers on the screw, on top, above the springs. Next, put on the front spring, placing it on top of the r^ar spring and under both washers. This front spring will just slide on the screw. Tighten finger tight. Before replacing assembly, take this opportunity to buff your Contact screw, removing any pits.
To replace the assembly, slide the rear spring under the loosened rear screw, making sure Lhe rear spring is back all the way against the screw and under both washers Tighten finger tight.
On liner tips there will be one groove. On shader tips there will be several separate grooves, like railroad tracks. On the round tips, usea round Swiss needle file to smooth it back out. On flat shader tips and your one needle liner tip, use a square Swiss needle file. If you have to file a tip to get it to stop splattering, be sure to clean it out good with a brush. Sterilize it before you use it again.
The splattering could come from one or all of the above. If one thing doesn't work, try something else, until you figure it out.
If none of the above worked, change the needle bar to see if that helps.
If that doesn't work, check the springs and replace them if necessary. Sometimes one side of spring will break where it's being held by the screw. It's hard to spot.
The hard part is, if it starts splattering in the middle of a tattoo, you have to be able to figure it out, or continue with a splattering machine. This will take lot longer to do if you don't know what's going on and your nerves will be shot from anxiety dealing with it.
If the lube is tight in the frame jaws, the slot gap will have to be widened. This can be done by dismantling the machine and clamping the frame tn a vice and sawing through the gap with two fine tooth hack saw blades. Screw the coils to the frame base and use straight edge to see whether the centers of the coil cores are in a direct line with the center of the tube hole and the center of the spring hanger. If one or both are slightly off center, loosen screw and insert a thin piece of copper shim on the low side under core. Tighten screw and see how it looks; you may have to shift shim several times to get it right.


When the machine is running, the armature bar strikes the front core of the first coil, but must not be allowed to touch the rear core. If it does, file a bit off the rear core surface.
Whenever filing, first mark the surface with Prussian blue (available at art supply shops) so you will see just what you have done and where you are going. Afterwards, remove filings with a Q-tip dipped in glycerine. On some frames, it's necessary to remove coil to file.
Also, on most machines, you can move the spring-hanger slightly from side-to-side or back-and forth a bit- Clamp the frame base in a vice and grasp spring-hanger with vice-grips and bend gently. Armature bar can be lowered slightly by filing surface of spring hanger, which you will have to do after you bend it in order to level the surface.
If points don't meet to make a perfect contact, you can move side-arm in or out and on most machines fore or aft a bit — be sure the base is tightly gripped in vice when doing this. The significance of this is that shading machines perform better with longer fore and aft springs - even ^ of an inch can make a remarkable difference.
FRAME ALTERATIONS



Text Box: Side arm can be slightly bent side.Text Box: Side viewText Box: Front viewSide arm could be slightly bent in or out










Tension is achieved by the rear spring. Remove needle bar and holding machine in left hand by the tube, depress armature bar with left thumb and ease it upwards until contacts meet There should be enough tension so you can see the front spring rise a little more when contacts meet and you release your thumb - then you've got it right. You can buy a gauge from a tattoo supply house to duplicate this same tension when you replace the rear spring.
When coils are set where you want them, add a drop of liquid thread to the machine screws the last time you turn them in. This will assure a secure and tight fit. This can also be done with the two screws that hold the posts.
If you choose to wind your own coils, use *24 insulated magnet wire and a hand turned coil winder. Use a point file to keep points clean.
Listen very carefully to the buzz of your machine. You might have to turn the contract screw in or out just a little until you get that right sound. It should sound real smooth. Listen carefully to the sound of the machine as you turn the contact screw and you will be able to "hear” the ideal setting if you pay attention. It won’t be choppy and clatter, yet it will have plen ty of power and have a long enough stroke to allow the needle bar to travel between lУ16 and 3/32 inch up and down.


Once you get used to the "purr" that it makes when it is running Rood, you will be able to keep your points set at optimum efTidency quickly and easily j ust by hearing it. When it begins to “purr,” take your foot off the pedal and tighten the set. screw to lock the contact screw in that position. Then push the foot pedal again to be sure that it is still tuned "right" and doesn't need any further adjustment.


After you attach the tube and needle bar, you may have to readjust the point gap slightly to compensate for the extra weight. If so, loosen the set screw and push down on the pedal as you screw the contact screw down a tiny bit more, listening to the sound of the machine until it is running smoothly and strongly. Just remember that the smoother your machine runs, the better it will tattoo for you.
If you are going along and all of a sudden your machine quits, first check to see if it is your machine or your power pack. Tb do this, try your other machine to see if it will work. If it is your machine and you can't fix it on the spot, you can always put your needle bar and tube on your other machine and reset the point gap as a last resort to finish the tattoo.
If your machine won't run at all, it is either a short or an open in your circuit First check to makesure your points are clean, rf there is something caught between them, it will break the circuit. Hold the armature bar down with your thumb to open the contact and blow hard on the points. Ifthis doesn’tclean them, try pulling a small strip of paper through the points while they are closed. If this doesn't work, try pulling a strip of emery cloth through them, grit side up, then grit side down. Then blow to get any grit out. If this works, you will probably want to readjust the point setting slightly to get it buzzing “just right” again.
Another area that shouldn’t be overlooked is weak coils. If your machine won't run at all, or has very little power, it could be your coils. If your coils are bad, you can replace them by taking out the two screws in the bottom of the frame, being careful to note which washers go where, under the coils. Replace with new coils. When you melt the solder to disconnect the old coils, reattach your new coil wires at the same time. If your machine has a capacitor on it, you may want to replace it too, at the same time. (Consult Wiring Diagram in Chapter 3.)
If your machine just up and quits on you all at once, or won't run when you take it out. look for any loose or broken wires or connections, The tattoo machine is really quite simple, with few adjustments and fewer moving parts. Due to the constant vibration of the machine, you have to constantly fool with it, readjusting and tightening this and that. Daily maintenance is the key.
If you are having trouble with ink splattering out your tube tip, there could be several reasons for it. A slight splattering is normal. Sometimes it is caused by ink overloading. The reservoir on some bottom ends doesn't allow for much ink. A square tip is more prone to splattering than з round one Some lighter frames tend to splatter more than others. Check the tube tips for wear, change them before they wear down to a sharp edge. A machine that is properly tuned and used puls the ink out uniformly and rarely splatters,
By paying attention to these points, you will most likely eliminate any problem: First, make sure your needle is in the tube right with the needle on the bottom side of the tip. Make sure the open side of the needle bar loop is to your left when it is attached to the armature bar.
Second, make sure the needle bar isn’t hitting the side of the tube as it goes up and down.
Third, make sure the rubber bands are all in good shape and are all pulling evenly. Pulthem away from the needle bar one at a time and snap them back into place. Check them to be sure they aren't weak or worn. It doesn't hurt to replace your rubber bands every 15 or 20 hours of tattoo time. They don't cost much and if they aren't doing their job properly, you can really tax your brain trying to figure out why it's splattering.
Fourth, make sure your points are properly set.
Fifth, look at your tube tips. If they are worn, you will get splatter. T&ke out the needle and look inside the tip. If there is a groove where the needle rides, file it smooth again. Be very careful not to file away any more of the metal then you have to. The tip is made of soft metal and it’s easy to get carried away. Be careful, a little at a time,

Once the machine is just right, never make any further adjustments. The more it's run and the older it gets, the better it will function.
On the left side of the machine you will see where the wire from both coils are soldered together. Squeeze some G.E. Silicone rubber into this area to prevent bare wire from shortcircuiting on frame. As a matter of fact, it's a good idea to do this all around between the base of coils and base of frame to prevent moisture from entering coils. Use a toothpick to smooth.
While the machine is running, there will be continuous arcing. Most machines come equipped with capacitors to eliminate arcing and cut down on point wear. If you put them on yourself, use one that is 25 volts and 10 MFD. This isn't critical and you may want to experiment with different ones.

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